Short answer
Lining creates a new resin pipe inside the old one, so it needs a host that is round and continuous — good for clay and concrete with joint problems. Pipe bursting pulls a new HDPE pipe through the old route while breaking the old pipe apart, so it can work where the host is too damaged to line — often a fit for Orangeburg and collapsed sections, as long as a cable can pass and the route allows it. The camera footage decides.
Two very different ideas
Both methods avoid a trench along the run, and that is where the similarity ends. Cured-in-place pipe (CIPP) lining keeps the old pipe and builds a new one inside it. Pipe bursting destroys the old pipe and drags a new one into the space it occupied. Which is right depends almost entirely on the condition and material of what is already in the ground — which is why the decision starts with footage, not a sales pitch.
How lining works
- The line is cleaned and, if needed, descaled, and any protruding roots or offsets are cut back.
- A felt or fibreglass sleeve saturated with resin is pulled or inverted into the pipe from a cleanout or access pit.
- The sleeve is inflated against the host pipe and cured — with hot water, steam, or ultraviolet light — into a hard, continuous pipe.
- Branch connections are reopened from inside with a robotic cutter; a final camera pass documents the result.
The liner needs the host to hold its shape while it cures, so the host must be round and continuous. Clay with joint problems, concrete with a rough crown, and scaled cast iron under a slab are all good hosts. See sewer lining for how we do it.
How bursting works
- A pit is dug at each end of the run — typically at the house and near the property line or the main.
- A cable is fed through the old pipe from one pit to the other.
- A bursting head, larger than the old pipe, is pulled through by a hydraulic winch. It splits the old pipe and pushes the fragments into the surrounding soil.
- New HDPE pipe, fused into one jointless length, follows the head and is connected at each end.
Because the old pipe is broken apart, bursting can work where it is collapsed, ovalised, or in pieces, as long as a cable can pass and the route allows it. See pipe bursting.
Choosing between them
| Situation | Better fit | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Clay or concrete, round, roots and minor offsets | Lining | The host is a good mould; one pass seals every joint; often no pit at all |
| Orangeburg, ovalised or blistered | Bursting | The host cannot hold a liner's shape |
| Collapsed or missing sections | Bursting, or spot repair then lining | A liner cannot span a void; bursting does not need continuity |
| Belly (sag) | Neither alone | Both follow the route; the sag needs re-grading first |
| Line needs to be larger | Bursting | It can upsize; lining slightly downsizes |
| Under a slab or with no room for pits | Lining | Usually installed from a cleanout, often with no excavation |
| Many branch connections along the run | Lining, with reinstatement | Bursting severs every connection, which then needs a pit each |
| Route passes very close to other utilities | Lining | Bursting displaces soil and can disturb adjacent lines |
The combinations that come up most
Real lines are rarely one condition end to end. The most common Seattle plan is a small excavation to fix one thing a liner cannot handle — a dropped section, a belly, a severe offset — followed by a liner through the rest. The second most common is bursting the yard section while lining the under-slab section, because the two pipes fail differently. Neither combination is exotic; both are a matter of matching the method to what each stretch of footage shows, which is why we quote from the video rather than from the curb.
What both need before they start
A clean line, a full-length trace with depths, a side sewer permit from Seattle Public Utilities for the yard work, and a candid conversation about what the footage shows. If a contractor recommends one method without having run a camera, or recommends the only method they own for every line, that is worth noticing. The questions to ask article has the list.
Questions people also ask
Which one lasts longer?
Both leave a jointless pipe where a jointed one was. Bursting installs a brand-new jointless pipe; lining installs a jointless pipe bonded to the old one. In practice the choice is about what the host pipe allows, not longevity.
Does lining reduce the pipe size?
Slightly — a liner takes a few millimetres off the diameter. Because the new bore is smooth and jointless, flow is usually better than before despite the smaller size.
Can you burst a line that runs under my house?
Bursting needs a pit at each end and a straight-ish route. Under a slab it is often more practical to line, or to open the slab at one spot. The trace tells you.
Is one less expensive?
It depends on depth, length, access and how many pits or spot repairs each needs. Ask for both to be priced when the line could take either; the comparison is the useful number.
More of the questions we hear every week are on the FAQ page .
Sources
If this is your problem
Trenchless sewer repair
The service page — what we do, how we decide, and what you get in writing.
OpenOr just ask us
(425) 478-3133Open 24/7/365. Estimates and second opinions are free — see our current offers .
