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Learning Center · Trenchless & repair methods · Compare & decide

Do I need the whole sewer line replaced, or just one section?

Short answer

Replace or repair the section that is actually failed, and seal or leave the rest based on its condition. One collapsed joint or one belly in an otherwise round pipe is a spot repair, often a few feet of excavation marked by the locator. Defects at several points, deformed material like Orangeburg, or a run with more bad footage than good is a whole-line job — trenchless where the route allows.

Written by the Pro Sewer Repair team Reviewed by Rob Kuchan, Founder & Owner Published September 10, 2026 Last reviewed September 10, 2026 3 min read

The question the footage answers

A sewer line is a chain of sections, and they do not all fail together. The useful question is not "is the line good or bad" but "which sections are failed, which are failing, and which are fine." A full-length camera inspection with distances and a surface trace gives you exactly that map, and the decision falls out of it.

When a spot repair is the right call

  • One collapsed or crushed section in a line that is otherwise round and continuous.
  • One belly that needs re-grading, with sound pipe either side.
  • One severe offset the camera cannot pass.
  • A broken connection at the main or a failed tap into a shared line.
  • A section damaged by recent digging (a new water service, a fence post, a tree removal).

In each case the defect has a start and an end, the locator marks both on the surface with depth, and the excavation is sized to it. Under lawn at moderate depth that is a small hole and new pipe on compacted bedding, joined to the existing line with proper transition couplings.

When the whole line is the job

  • Defects at multiple points — three offsets and a root mass are not three spot repairs, they are a line that has lost its joints.
  • Deformed or delaminating material: Orangeburg, concrete with the crown gone, cast iron channelled along its length.
  • More bad footage than good.
  • A line that is undersized for the house or for an added unit.
  • A line whose route is going under something new — a garage, an addition, a paved driveway — where you want it done once.

Whole-line does not have to mean a trench. Bursting replaces the run from two pits; lining rebuilds it from a cleanout. Open-trench replacement is for short, shallow, accessible runs or where the route needs to change.

The middle path many Seattle lines take

The most common report on a pre-1960 house reads something like: roots at four joints, one moderate offset at the property line, sound pipe otherwise. That is not a spot repair — the joints will keep admitting roots — and it is not a replacement either. It is one small excavation to reset the offset, then a liner through the whole run to seal every joint. The dig stays small, the disruption stays low, and the line ends up jointless end to end. Bids that offer only "replace everything" or only "clear it again" are both leaving that option out.

Comparing the options on one line

Footage showsSpot repairSpot + lineBurst / replace
One crushed section, rest soundYesIf joints are also leakingRarely
One belly, rest soundYesIf roots elsewhereRarely
Roots at many joints, roundNoYesPossible
Orangeburg, ovalisedNoNoYes
Several offsets, one severeNoYesYes — compare
Concrete, crown missing in stretchesNoNoYes

Where the surface comes in

The same defect under lawn, under a driveway, and under a garage slab are three different jobs. The trace tells you which you have, and it is fair to let the surface tip the decision: a spot repair under lawn is easy; a spot repair under a new driveway may make bursting the whole run from two pits at the edges the smaller disturbance. Ask any bidder to say, in writing, what is being repaired from where to where, and what is being done with the rest of the line. The bid comparison article shows what that looks like.

Questions people also ask

Is a spot repair a permanent fix?

For the spot, yes — new pipe on proper bedding. Whether the house is done with sewer work depends on the rest of the line, which is why the footage of the whole run matters more than the footage of the one bad place.

How small can a spot repair be?

A single joint can be exposed in a hole a few feet across. Depth adds more than length does; a shallow line under lawn is a morning's work, a ten-foot-deep one under a driveway is not.

If I spot-repair now, will I regret it when the next joint goes?

Only if the rest of the line was already failing and the report said so. A spot repair plus a liner through the remainder is the usual way to avoid the second visit.

Does a spot repair need a permit?

Any work on the side sewer outside the building needs a side sewer permit from Seattle Public Utilities, including a single-joint repair.

More of the questions we hear every week are on the FAQ page .

Ready when you are

Let's put a camera down the line and see.

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